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When you arrive in Vientiane (pronounced as Wieng Chan) be prepared for a shock, as this Capital city and port town on the Mekong River is unlike any other in South East Asia. In fact, what stuns most travelers when they first set foot in the city, is the sheer tranquility of the place — no mad honking, no swarming vendors, no sly cabbies vying for your business. In fact, Vientiane has the atmosphere of a sleepy, rural town, where the concept of tourism is still pleasantly innocent, and its modern buildings are few and far between.

Buddhism is very much the religion of the area, obviously displayed by the many monks strolling the tranquil streets, and the surprising ongoing construction of new temples around the city. Buddhist stupas and figures of all sizes are the highlight of this calm town and its environs, and the best way of seeing Vientiane, is to follow the locals’ example and hire a bicycle, which costs a mere $1.

First on the sightseeing list should be the oldest wat, or monastery in the capital, Wat Si Saket. Built in 1818 by King Anou, you’ll find literally thousands of ceramic and silver Buddha statues generously displayed inside the cloister wall of the main temple, the air enveloped with the unmistakable scent of incense. In front on the Si Saket temple is the Ho Pra Keo temple, built by the King Sayasetthirath in the 16th century.

This somewhat large structure was the original home of the famous Emerald Buddha, stolen in 1779 (now displayed in Bangkok) but the temple is still extraordinary in itself, with quite a few interesting things to see, as well as pretty manicured gardens and a small gift shop. About 4 km from the center of town, is the grand Pha That Luang, regarded as Laos’ greatest religious symbol and seen on its currency notes. The sight of this looming 150—foot golden stupa is an overwhelming one — especially on a sunny day.

To and from That Luang, you’re sure to pass the Pratuxai Monument, which when viewed from a distance strangely resembles the Arc de Triomphe in Paris (perhaps a nudge from its French colonial past?). This victory arch of Vientiane was built to commemorate Laos’ soldiers who fought during the war, and a climb to the top of this concrete monument can give you a good view of the city.

With so many of Vientiane’s attractions either rebuilt, reconstructed or under construction, it was a treat to find the That Dam or Black stupa on Chanthakoummane Road, which refreshingly was none of the above.

And although you cannot enter this ancient looking stupa in the midst of the city, one can snoop around it quite happily, envisaging the legendary seven—headed dragon who resided here.

Another place to see in the capital is the Laos National Museum and the Cultural Hall, which despite being small and relatively unsophisticated, has a decent collection which can give you a good idea of the history and culture of the area through artifacts, photographs and paintings.

If you still have time, it may be worth your while to visit the weird and wonderful Xieng Khuan or Buddha park, about 20 km from the city. This park has a bizarre collection of Buddhist and Hindu statues and a number of even stranger structures, such as a cavernous monster’s mouth one can enter to walk up its staircase as if rising from ’ hell to heaven’.

In summary, Laos’ unassuming capital city is a slow—pulsed town, where one can see practically all the sights in a day. And although Vientiane may not have the buzzing, exotic atmosphere seen in many cities in the region, this quiet haven has a charm of its own, where even the most jaded traveler can in all honesty say they experienced the true Asia.