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Lanna, ’the land of a million rice fields’. This cool(er) and calm fertile land has become the place of interest for the modern visitor. Chiang Mai, its capital, buzzes with interest and tourists preparing to set forth on their treks to nearby hilltribe villages. Lanna is also the region of the infamous Golden Triangle where Thailand, Burma and Laos meet and from where the world’s opium comes.

Until the beginning of the century, Lanna was a largely independent region with its own style of art and architecture. It is prefectly possible to roam the surrounding countryside using alternative methods to one’s feet, namely the renting of a jeep or motorbike. You can then make the 600km loop over the forested western mountains to Mai Hong Son and back.

Nan, to the east of Chiang Mai, is largely untouristy, but combines rich mountain scenery with eclectic temple art.

Heading north from Chiang Mai towards the Burmese border brings you to the increasingly upmarket town of Chiang Rai (the second biggest trekking centre) and then on to the frontier settlement of Mae Sai (the so—called Golden Triangle) at Sop Ruak, and the ruined temples of Chiang Saen.

Chiang Mai, Thailand’s second largest city (40 times smaller than Bangkok), is very commercial and a lot of junk is churned out for the undiscerning. So buy carefully! The night market near the expensive hotels is a good place to look for almost anything, but you must bargain hard (look for The Hilltribe Products Foundation and Thai Tribal Art both of which are excellent places to buy crafts and their prices are often much lower than the night market).

At one time Chiang Mai was an independent kingdom, much given to warring with Burma and Laos as well as Sukhothai to the south. It is still possible to see the two—kilometre—square moat that encircled the city at that time. Originally founded in 1296, Chiang Mai fell to the Burmese in 1556, but was recaptured in 1775. It has retained many of its traditional features such as wooden houses, inviting guesthouses, good markets, cookery, massage and meditation courses.

If you only see one temple in Chiang Mai it has to be Wat Phra Singh in the old town. It displays exquisite nineteenth century Lanna architecture with its square, multi—tiered roof and beautiful carved and gilded pediment. Inside sits a portly, radiant and much revered bronze Buddha in fifteenth—century Lanna style. The walls are painted with murals depicting daily life 100 years ago.

Other temples to visit are Wat Chianh Man, the oldest wat within the city walls founded by King Mengrai, Chiang Mai’s founder, and Wat Chedi Luang constructed in 1411, which contains ruins of a huge chedi which collapsed in an earthquake in 1545. For a fuller picture of Lanna culture and art you must go to the National Museum on the northwest outskirts of Chiang Mai.

Treks usually last for up to three days and follow an organised route. The group will generally consist of 6 to 12 adults. There will be a few hours walking every day, possibly the opportunity to ride on an elephant, and a trip on a bamboo raft. You would normally sleep on the floor of the village headman’s hut with your guide cooking you your meals. The emphasis of your trek will not necessarily be on the scenery, as with many other countries, but more on Lanna’s inhabitants. The hilltribes presiding there, now number well over 800,000 people living in about 3,500 villages.