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Bordered by Cambodia and Laos on three sides, this land in northeast Thailand is known as Isaan. It is the least visited region of Thailand although in many ways is the most ’Thai’ with a number of places of interest to visit. It is by far and away the poorest region (in 2002 only one internet connection was established per 75 households — the average at the time throughout the rest of Thailand was one in 22 households) but perhaps it is the most traditional. (It is wonderful to see water buffalo being used instead of tractors).

Here in Isaan is Thailand’s most popular national park, Khao Yai, with 12 well worn trails radiating from the area around the visitor centre, and more further afield. The Park has lots of waterfalls and several undemanding walking trails for those who feel like taking it easy. You have a good chance of spotting hornbills, kingfishers, pig—tailed macaques, gibbons, barking deer, civets, and if you’re lucky an elephant or a tiger.

Between the eleventh and thirteenth centuries, the all—powerful Khmers covered the northeast in magnificent stone temples which can still be seen at Phimai and Phanom Rung. The Mekong River forms 750km of the border between Laos and Isaan, and there are 4 points along it where foreigners are allowed to cross the border. Popular guesthouses can be found in Chiang Khan, Sang Khom, Sri Chiangmai, That Phanom and Nong Khai.

If you’re seeking a wonderful meditation retreat then look further than to Wat Phu Tok.

Nakhon Ratchasima (formerly known as Khorat) is the place from which to visit the Khmer ruins of Phimai and Phanom Rung. It does not really have anything exciting to see for the traveller apart from one museum (Mahawirong Museum) which houses a fine collection of Khmer art objects.

About 60km northeast of Khorat is the town of Phimai which is dominated by an exquisitely restored 12th century Khmer shrine. It was once directly connected by road with Angkor in Cambodia and has been described as the Angkor Wat of Thailand. It is built mainly of dusky pink and greyish—white sandstone and is a really beautiful and impressive piece of work. There is also a ruined palace and open air museum worth visiting in Phimai.

Midway between Khorat and Phimai is another wonderful Khmer ruin at Phanom Rung which dates back to the 10th century and stands as the finest example of Khmer architecture in Thailand. The buildings are so perfectly aligned that on the morning of April’s full moon day you can stand at the westernmost gateway and see the rising sun through all fifteen doors.

Surin, 197km east of Khorat, is best known for its elephant round—ups which happen every November. It is an excellent place to purchase silk and has a fine guesthouse. It’s also a very good base from which to visit Phanom Rung.

The people of Isaan eat a wide variety of creatures, originally forced by poverty to be creative in finding foods. They now savour these animals as delicacies! They are creatures such as lizards, frogs, fried insects (such as grasshoppers), silkworms and dung beetles.

For their staple diet the people of Isaan eat sticky rice (rather than plain), fiery chillies, papaya salad, meat salad and grilled chicken. Food is frequently shared among friends and many dishes are cooked regardless of how many people might be sitting down to eat!