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Historically, this rugged mountain province of Northwestern Vietnam was an area practically shunned by the Vietnamese for centuries.

Its often dangerous, harsh terrain, made certain that only a handful of minority groups, and later, immigrants from China and Tibet, thrived in this merciless, yet spectacular region. Today, these indigenous people still call this place home, mostly keeping to their ancient way of life, with traditions unscathed by outside influences.

The most popular route taken to this far—flung area is by way of the ’North West Loup’, through Highway 6, definitely the most tourist—friendly road of the region. From Hanoi, the road begins in Mai Chau, travels westward to Dien Bien Phu, then north to Sapa, passing Vietnam’s highest mountain peak at Fansipan.

With its relatively good roads (weather permitting!) and smattering of decent lodgings and eateries along the way, the route is easily accessible and an excellent way of experiencing the magnificent scenery of Northwest Vietnam.

While the mouth—gaping beauty of the hilly landscape is a given, the route is livened up by the culturally diverse ’hill—tribe’ people who go about their daily lives in some of the most interesting clothing imaginable, dressed in fanciful headgear ranging from jolly, bright red—orange tassled scarves to austere black conical turbans.

It should be noted however, that these indigenous tribes, such as the Dzao and the H’Mong and the Black Thai have had fairly little contact with tourism (except perhaps in larger towns like Sapa), and travelers who meet them should take extra care in respecting their customs, beliefs and traditions. The same goes for the natural environment, as this part of Vietnam is now globally recognized as one of the top conservation priorities in the world.

The ’North West Loup’ is best explored by a 4—wheel drive vehicle, but a bus ride, or better yet, a hefty motorcycle are other possible options.

To get the full experience of this region one really needs about a week, although many travelers (those vertigo —inclined especially) choose shorter routes within the ’loup’. Starting off from Hanoi, the road to Mai Chau is a pleasant one, especially when you near the village and the gorgeous mountain landscape suddenly seems to descend upon you.

A walk in the pretty village of Mai Chau can give you an idea of how the indigenous ’Thai’ people live, as their stilted homes stand tall around the place. The drive to Son La is known to be a beautiful one, with more tribal villages set against a background of a dramatic mountain range.

Though best described as a nondescript town, Dien Bien Phu, the region’s new capital does have its historical claim to fame, as the spot of the famous battle where the French colonizers were defeated in 1954, the beginning of the end for the Indochina Empire. Sleepy Lai Chau is nestled amid the steep, green mountains, and short treks around its surrounding areas can be a fantastic way to get a glimpse of some of the most colourful hill tribes in the region.

The long 170—kilometer ride to Sapa from Lai Chau can be a neck—cramping one indeed, but relief should arrive at the majestic sight of the Hoang Lien Mountains, including the mighty Fansipan, Vietnam’s highest mountain.

Spending a few days in the pleasant Sapa, which overlooks these mountains, is becoming increasingly popular with foreigners as well as locals, with the number of hotels, and crowds, rapidly on the rise.

From Sapa, the weary mountain trekker need just hop on the train, and the next morning, find himself back in Hanoi — hopefully having had a good nights sleep with many sweet dreams of the mystical Tonkinese Alps.