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Life can be busy, life can be a hectic whirlwind. But not in Laos. Here the pace is slow, calm and serene, where a force known as ’kamma’ or ’karma’ has taken a grip. As Theravada Buddhists, the Lao believe that passionate emotion is destructive, and one must ensure one’s life is filled to the brim with buckets of fun (which they call ’muan’).

The former capital, Luang Prabang, once know as Muang Xieng Thong, is the ’City of Gold’. Sleeping where the Mekong and Khan rivers meet and surrounded by mountains, you approach the city by air and you’ll feel you have suddenly entered a theatrical setting where far below you glinting in the midday sun are hundreds of temples with gilded roofs. Once on dry land and meandering through the streets, you still feel like you are amidst a fairy tale. Traffic is virtually non existent and there are almost no tourist rip—offs.

The architecture is predominantly French colonial. There are 32 temples and a couple of palaces. Luang Prabang should be seen at an amble. Cafes spill out on to the pavements in a relaxed fashion � their ceiling fans turning slowly in the shady interiors and ice—cold beers beckon from the freezers! Bicycles are available to hire and since the city is fairly small it can be seen by foot with ease.

The former royal palace is worth a visit. Despite the last Lao king being deposed around 30 years ago, the palace still displays their royal couple’s jewellery, clothes and magazines. The Lao haven’t lost their love and affection for their royals. The palace also houses Pha Bang, the 33’ high image of Buddha made in the first century from gold, sliver and bronze alloy.

The most magnificent temple to visit is Wat Xieng Thong. The main hall was built in 1560 and is classic Lao style.

The food is wonderful everywhere, no matter where you are. Simple fresh ingredients are always used. If you happen to get to a restaurant called Tum Tum Cheng, not only will you sample exquisite food but also you can join a cookery class for a morning.

Another colonial favourite is a former royal palace called Villa Santi which has a first floor terrace to die for. Once it was the smartest place to stay but now has been superceded by two others, namely:

Venturing out in the evening you’ll find the main street in Luang Prabang becomes a relaxed night market with people who’ve travelled from miles around to sell their wares. Bargaining isn’t on the agenda here, but prices are ridiculously low, by Western standards, anyway. If you’re looking for clubs and bars to stay open late then you’d better head back to Bangkok, for here the restaurants and bars have to shut by 10.30pm and everyone is usually in bed by midnight.

Early mornings are a different thing however, as the hustle and bustle from 5.30am commences with the monks spilling out of the wats (temples) in single file holding out their bowls which the population will fill with their offerings for the day.

September would be a good month to pay a visit to Laos as the rains are now over and the crowds have yet to emerge (which they do between November & February) and it is also slightly cooler.