Its often dangerous, harsh terrain, made certain that only a handful of minority groups, and later, immigrants from China and Tibet, thrived in this merciless, yet spectacular region. Today, these indigenous people still call this place home, mostly keeping to their ancient way of life, with traditions unscathed by outside influences.

The most popular route taken to this far—flung area is by way of the ’North West Loup’, through Highway 6, definitely the most tourist—friendly road of the region. From Hanoi, the road begins in Mai Chau, travels westward to Dien Bien Phu, then north to Sapa, passing Vietnam’s highest mountain peak at Fansipan.

With its relatively good roads (weather permitting!) and smattering of decent lodgings and eateries along the way, the route is easily accessible and an excellent way of experiencing the magnificent scenery of Northwest Vietnam.

While the mouth—gaping beauty of the hilly landscape is a given, the route is livened up by the culturally diverse ’hill—tribe’ people who go about their daily lives in some of the most interesting clothing imaginable, dressed in fanciful headgear ranging from jolly, bright red—orange tassled scarves to austere black conical turbans.

It should be noted however, that these indigenous tribes, such as the Dzao and the H’Mong and the Black Thai have had fairly little contact with tourism (except perhaps in larger towns like Sapa), and travelers who meet them should take extra care in respecting their customs, beliefs and traditions. The same goes for the natural environment, as this part of Vietnam is now globally recognized as one of the top conservation priorities in the world.

The ’North West Loup’ is best explored by a 4—wheel drive vehicle, but a bus ride, or better yet, a hefty motorcycle are other possible options.

To get the full experience of this region one really needs about a week, although many travelers (those vertigo —inclined especially) choose shorter routes within the ’loup’. Starting off from Hanoi, the road to Mai Chau is a pleasant one, especially when you near the village and the gorgeous mountain landscape suddenly seems to descend upon you.

A walk in the pretty village of Mai Chau can give you an idea of how the indigenous ’Thai’ people live, as their stilted homes stand tall around the place. The drive to Son La is known to be a beautiful one, with more tribal villages set against a background of a dramatic mountain range.

Though best described as a nondescript town, Dien Bien Phu, the region’s new capital does have its historical claim to fame, as the spot of the famous battle where the French colonizers were defeated in 1954, the beginning of the end for the Indochina Empire. Sleepy Lai Chau is nestled amid the steep, green mountains, and short treks around its surrounding areas can be a fantastic way to get a glimpse of some of the most colourful hill tribes in the region.

The long 170—kilometer ride to Sapa from Lai Chau can be a neck—cramping one indeed, but relief should arrive at the majestic sight of the Hoang Lien Mountains, including the mighty Fansipan, Vietnam’s highest mountain.

Spending a few days in the pleasant Sapa, which overlooks these mountains, is becoming increasingly popular with foreigners as well as locals, with the number of hotels, and crowds, rapidly on the rise.

From Sapa, the weary mountain trekker need just hop on the train, and the next morning, find himself back in Hanoi — hopefully having had a good nights sleep with many sweet dreams of the mystical Tonkinese Alps.

With its narrow old streets, French architecture and cafe society, roaming around this relaxed yet busy city can take you back to the ambient past of the Orient.

One shouldn’t have to worry about getting a guide in this delightful city, as Hanoi is filled with little surprises in every street, all waiting to be discovered. It is best to explore the city on your own —by foot, or by cyclo, those tireless three—wheeled bicycles favoured by the locals. Be brave though, as crossing the road in Hanoi can be quite a challenge with the inexorable motorbikes zooming in and out of every corner.

Most of the streets and boulevards in Hanoi are lined with shady trees, spacious parks and picturesque lakes a welcome change from the concrete jungles of most Asian cities.

It is easy to keep yourself occupied in this gracious city, and just as easy to simply do nothing but perhaps watch the world go by from a coffee shop’s terrace. The latter seems to be a popular pastime in this city nonetheless, and you are bound to find the locals happily sipping their sweet, potent brews at all hours of the day. In Hanoi old Quarter, coffee connoisseurs can easily find the infamous CHON or Weasel Coffee, whose delectable flavour supercedes the ungainly way it was produced.

If you can manage to get up at first light, seeing the city come to life is an experience not to be missed. As the sun rises, light dazzling on Hoan Kien Lake, the joggers and Tai Chi fill a postcard perfect scenario, and soon enough, the vendors with their colourful wares appear in the cobblestone pavements, while the smell of strong Vietnamese coffee fill your lungs. Ah, if only all mornings could be like this!

After a bracing breakfast of Pho, exploring the Old Quarter of the cultural capital, is a wonderful way to soak up some of Hanoi’s heady atmosphere. This ancient area is a maze of winding streets, each of which is named after a particular trade or item sold in that street. A tradition upheld by the city’s artists guild since the 13th century, the streets hold treasures in its countless narrowly—shaped shops, from religious paraphernalia to silks and jewelry, and these days, the old merchant’s district is also home to many art galleries, restaurants, and of course, sidewalk cafes.

If you are still in need of more history, Hanoi will not disappoint with the large number of temples, museums, pagodas, and even government buildings to visit. High on the list of sights is, ’Uncle Ho’s’ final resting place, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum on Ba Dinh Square.

Here lies the well—embalmed body of Vietnam’s beloved leader, an eerily somber place where a strict dress—code and respectful conduct is required. Further along at the Ho Chi Minh Museum, you’ll find all things to do with the great man himself, from personal memorabilia to military documents.

For a glimpse of well—preserved 11th century Vietnamese architecture, look no further than the Temple of Literature, considered the sacred seat of learning in Vietnam. This is an oasis away from the hurly burly of city, where you can stroll through the pretty courtyards, imagining the heated scholarly debates that took place here hundreds of years ago.

Although this is no doubt a city on the rise, with more construction and tourist—savvy enterprises rapidly being built as we speak, Hanoi remains a city that holds the old traditions close to its heart.

One would probably never think of Vietnam as a shoppers’ destination, but it is! This land of green rice fields, fascinating monuments and conical hats is actually a shopaholic’s paradise, and the offerings are not just vast, but are easily found in virtually every street corner. So much so that it can get a little overwhelming at times, as the streets lined with shops and stalls, presenting their wares at ridiculously cheap prices.

Though you can get just about anything in Vietnam, you should look out for some of Vietnam’s distinctive and unique traditional handicrafts such as silks, lacquerware, embroidery, ethnic minority products, buffalo horn, wood, bamboo and rice paper and ceramics. There may be a few specialty objects that are a little difficult to find unless you know exactly where to go and what to ask for, so for items like this, it will save you time and money to first get some advice from the hotel staff. They are a good resource especially if you want to find something special.

Ironically, impulse buying can be quite a good thing in Vietnam. I know that normally, we like to mull over things a bit before actually spending on it, but if you’re trip is short, my advise is: if you do see something you like a lot, do go ahead and buy it because with if you do have other places to visit and are somewhat pressed for time, it wont be quite as easy to find it a second time.

The best souvenir shops can be found in the picturesque Northern city of Hanoi. Superior traditional, hand—made quality goods are found in this charming city. The shops here are definitely are worth a browse, with their tasteful displays beckoning incessantly, lined haphazardly along old but atmospheric narrow streets.

Decorated with silk lanterns, incense, wonderful art and large vases filled with exotic blooms, such as birds of paradise and lotus flowers, most shops here are as beautiful as the products they sell. Delicate pale green tea—sets, velvet handbags with bamboo handles and maybe some interesting gongs are just a few of the many items you’ll soon be longing to take home.

Looking for a new suit? Just head down to the port town of Hoi—An where experienced tailors eagerly await your order. You can choose a tailor on your own or you can ask for a recommendation from the hotel staff, as they usually have decent feedback from previous guests. You can also create your own design and within a day or two, you’ll be a proud owner of a fabulous suit or a luxurious silken garment. And best of all, the prices are so reasonable, almost unbelievable so.

Almost all of the markets in Vietnam sell the famous conical hat. But if you are looking for amazing hats that can almost be considered an art form, you must definitely visit the beautiful Royal City of Hue.

For designer clothes like Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton, then Saigon is where to look. Western style shops, malls and international products are found here. Electrical equipment, cameras, and trinkets are also in abundance amid the countless stalls and temples in the busy city.

If you are in the mood to shop, are looking for a bargain, but don’t quite know where to begin then simply head down to the local market. Every town or city in Vietnam has one. Vietnamese markets sell every conceivable item you can think of. However, the real bargains are found inside the main market. Here, you can find goodies that are priced considerably less than those found in standard souvenir shops.

Some of the shops in Vietnam have prices marked in US Dollars and you are expected to pay in the same currency. In the markets, prices are usually in Vietnamese Dong. One of the best things in shopping in Vietnam is the bargaining. No matter what currency the prices are marked, you can usually bargain especially if you are buying more than one item. Another wonderful thing about shopping in Vietnam is that there are loads of restaurants and coffee shops found in the streets so you can easily take a break from shopping and enjoy some of the potent local coffee.

After all that shopping in Vietnam, make sure that you have an extra bag or excess baggage allowance for your departure. You most probably will be needing it as the prices in this shopper’s paradise are so good that your dollar or dong, is bound to go a very, very long way.

Vietnam is a country deeply scarred by war and yet its outlook is forgiving and forward—looking. Its people believe last century’s occupations, battles and political influences have enriched the nation.

Washed ashore above the Mekong Delta, some 40km north of the South China Sea, Ho Chi Minh City, known also as Saigon, is a city on the march, a boom—town where the rule of the dollar is absolute. It is a testament to its war—torn past. Its history has made it resilient, effervescent, charged with initiative and roaring with trade.

The centre of Ho Chi Minh is compact and ideal for wandering around. It boasts fine restaurants, immaculate hotels and glitzy bars amidst its colonial villas and venerable pagodas.

There are many interesting places to visit including the markets, cathedral, river—port, Presidential Palace (perfectly preserved for some unknown reason!) and the nearby park which also houses a museum of Vietnamese History and Culture and a small zoo.

Ho Chi Minh City started life as a fishing village known as Prei Nokor and during the Angkor period (the 15th century) it flourished as an entrpot for Cambodian boats pushing down the Mekong River. Cargo ships still to this day jostle with rice barges and fragile sampans (an Oriental boat propelled by a sail or oars), whilst porters sweat in the humidity loading the boats.

During the 18th century, the Khmers by now had been ousted, Prei Nokor was renamed as Saigon and was made a temporary capital between 1772 and 1802, after which the Emperor Gia Long used it as his regional administrative centre.

The French seized Saigon in 1861 and set about a huge public works programme by building roads and draining marsh land. The war against the French lasted thirty years after which Saigon was finally designated the capital of the Republic of South Vietnam.

American troops withdrew in 1973 and two years later Saigon had been renamed as Ho Chi Minh City.

This is a port that is steamy hot and searlingly stylish. The streets are lined with imaginative one—off boutiques, design stores and busy cafes where you will be able to meet the local people on an informal basis. Dong Khoi and Le Thanh Ton streets are favourites for elegant silk clothing, hand embroidered scarves, and lacquerware. (Many stores will provide a service of organising a container to ship purchases home) In many ways Ho Chi Minh City is far more cosmopolitan and hedonistic than the capital, Hanoi.

Ho Chi Minh is also full to bursting point with people for whom progress hasn’t yet translated into food, lodging and employment, so begging, stealing and prostitution are very much in evidence. Petty crime, unfortunately, has increased in the last few years so much care should be taken when walking the streets or travelling on bicycles or motorbikes, especially after dark and around tourist nightspots.