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One of the most confusing but richest cultural experiences is Bangkok! You have to put up with some of the worst traffic jams in Asia, noise, pollution, annual floods and sticky weather, but beneath the surface Bangkok has a huge amount to offer.

Bangkok, or Krung Thep as it is locally known, has been the capital of Thailand since the Burmese sacked Ayuthaya in 1767. It’s a sprawling city, 40 times the size of Thailand’s next largest city and is a chaotic mix of street traders, designer shops, palaces, temples, river cruises, and canal markets. It’s chaotic and exhausting, and to do it justice you need boundless energy, time, patience and a bus map.

One of best places to start is at a place called Ratanakosin which is the royal island on the east bank of the Chao Phraya river. This is the location of the Grand Palace, Wat Po and the National Museum.

In the northeast corner of the huge Grand Palace is the holiest and most dazzling site in the Thailand, Wat Phra Kaeo, which was built as a private royal temple and houses the most important image, the Emerald Buddha. On a pedestal this tiny 60cm jadeite Buddha image, a hugely sacred figure renowned for its miraculous powers, sits beneath a 9—tiered umbrella at the top of a glittering cascade of golden altars. (As this is Thailand’s most sacred site there is a dress code whereby legs and shoulders must be covered).

Wat Po (the Temple of the Reclining Buddha) is Bangkok’s oldest temple built in the 17th century and is famous for housing the enormous gilded 45 metre reclining Buddha, which closely resembles a beached whale with mother of pearl feet! The beaming smile is five metres wide and the image depicts the Buddha entering Nirvana. Be sure to have a massage in the nearby hall before you leave!

The National Museum is supposedly the largest museum in southeast Asia. All the periods and styles of Thai history and art are shown here. The tours are excellent value and are highly recommended.

Other main areas of interest are Chinatown for its markets, Thonburi for its traditional canalside life and boat rides, Jim Thompson’s house in downtown Bangkok, Suan Pakkad Palace Museum comprising a private collection of Thai artefacts displayed in 6 traditional wooden houses, and Chatuchak Weekend Market.

Wedged inbetween the river and a haze of alleyway, temples and shops is Chinatown. Here you’ll discover areas packed full of tiny shops selling everything at bargain—basement rates. Look out for more unusual items such as ginseng roots, fish heads and cockroach—killer chalk! You’ll also come across a knot of shops specialising in paper funeral art. Chinese people buy miniature paper replicas of necessities such as money, cars and houses to be burned with body. In a temple called Wat Traimit you will find the 3m tall Golden Buddha which was cast in the 13th century and gleams as if coated in liquid metal.

Opposite the Grand Palace, on the Thonburi side of the river, one can see the spire of Wat Arun (The Temple of Dawn) which is decorated with millions of pieces of Chinese porcelain. It is especially beautiful seen at night. One of the most popular ways of seeing Wat Arun and the other Thonburi sights is with a canal tour on a longtail boat.

Jim Thompson died more than 30 years ago and yet still remains as one of Thailand’s most famous farangs (foreigners). His infamy came by introducing Thai silk to the world and for his collection of traditional art, much of which is displayed in his home — Jim Thompson’s House, just off Siam Square. The grand rambling house was constructed without nails from 200yr old teak houses which he had shipped to Bangkok from all over the kingdom. You’ll find the interiors have been left as they were during Thompson’s life.

Chatuchak Weekend Market is a great shopping experience. It has over 6,000 open air stalls to wander around selling antique amulets, lacquerware, ceramics, unusual sarongs, clothes and northern crafts.

One word of warning about some ’tuk—tuk’ drivers or locals claiming they’re officials or students. They may pretend the sight you’re wanting to visit is closed so that they can lead you on an alternative shopping trip for which they’ll receive a commission. Its also worth establishing a price with the tuk—tuk driver before you set off to your destination.