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For those who’ve been to the Philippines (or close to it), it is hard not to hear the beckoning call to Boracay, which many have dubbed as one of ’The Best Beaches in the World’. Once a hippy hideaway for travellers ’in the know’, ’Bora’ has grown to a buzzing holiday destination, yet still retains the relaxed charm from its earlier days. Breathtaking, powdery white sand, crystal—clear water, trendy boutiques, an array of cafes, restaurants and a funky nightlife, the island has an atmosphere unrivalled in South East Asia.

The Where’s and How’s

Boracay Island sits northwest of Panay Island, in the Visayas region of the Philippine archipelago. Long and narrow, it is just seven kilometres long, four kilometres of which is covered by an amazing white—sand beach known as ’White Beach’, as well as thirty other beaches and coves scattered around the blue waters. Just an hour’s flight south from Manila, getting there is easy, as a number of airlines now service Boracay with hourly flights to the nearby Caticlan in the mainland, followed by a fifteen minute ride by ’Banka’ or outrigger boat to the island. Those with more time on their hands can also get to Boracay by cruise ship or one of the more standard (and quite chaotic) liners leaving from the major ports.

The Season for Cotton Sand

The island’s name originated from the local term borac (meaning ’cotton’) because of the sand that made it famous. Cottony white and fine, Boracay’s white sand beach is the island’s pulse — where the day begins and ends.

Dive shops, tattoo artists, vendors, massage ladies, cafes and bars line the four kilometer stretch, while paraws, kite boarders and the occasional banana boat make for a colourful backdrop. In the Philippine summer months (March to May) and the Christmas holidays, the island is teaming with crowds, and can be quite daunting for those who had a peaceful beach holiday in mind. The beach and its waters also tend to suffer during the ’high season’, as do one’s wallet as the hotel rates skyrocket at this time. During the ’off peak’ months (June to mid—October), the island takes on a different, more sombre face, quietening down to face the fierce ’habagat’ rains and winds of the monsoon. Gone are the mobs of ledge—dancing crowds, throbbing hip—hop music and city slickers, and the island softly returns to what it was like in the early 90’s, but amidst a background of somewhat dramatic weather.

So much to do, so little time

Unlike most tourist spots in the Philippines, Boracay is well—equipped for the traveller, whatever their budget. With over 200 hundred resorts and counting, the island covers the full range of accommodation choices — from simple nipa huts costing $5 a night to luxurious suites complete with private pool, and everything in between.

The rates are known to depend on its proximity to each boat station — with the ritziest rooms in Station 1, the ’middle—of—the—road’ hotels at Station 2, and the ’cheap and cheerful’ in Station 3. For something a little different it may be worth exploring the little resorts tucked inland on hills or in the forest, or at the other side of the island, where the rocky beach and crashing waves make for a perfect romantic hideaway.

Strolling down white beach, one is spoilt for choice for the sheer number of restaurants, cafes and fruit shake bars to sample. For superb salads and pizza, the Aria cafe is a good choice, and for 24—hour fry—ups, look no further than Jammers, a casual beachfront ’burger joint’ run by the chatty Kuya Migs, an American who’s lived in the island for over 20 years. A few steps away is ’D’mall’, which, as the name states, is a sandy—floored outdoor area with a number of interesting shops and even more cafes. The spa—bug has also hit the island with The Mandala, Yasuragi and Neo spas, all of which offer pampering treatments with local ingredients (think banana leaf wraps and coconut scrubs) in tranquil settings.

Life’s a Beach

If ’life’s a beach’ then surely they must have been talking about life in Boracay, as a few days here is sure to conjure up fantasies of giving up your job back home and opening a fruit shake bar on the island.

If you are thinking of visiting this area, I can highly recommend this book. It’s the sort of info you only wish a local expert would tell you on your way over.